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Hawaii: Oahu
Hawai'i has two official languages--English and Hawaiian. But the latter, with its melodious sounds and lyrical rhythm, better expresses the breathtaking natural surroundings and relaxed, friendly feeling that visitors have come to love.
Vowels in the Hawaiian alphabet mingle in the mouth to form words as sweet as a fresh pineapple, as fluid as one of the state's many plummeting waterfalls, as rich as its volcanic soil and as colorful as the magical rainbow around the valley of Haleakala National Park.
Handed down from generation to generation through chants and oral tales, the language, like the land, tells the islands' story. Its soft sounds echo those found in nature--the sea's gentle splash as it caresses the sand, light rain falling on tropical foliage--and each is equally important to the beauty of the state. Kama'aina, native Hawaiians, have a familiar phrase--aloha 'aina, love for the land--that declares their connection with these patches of earth they call home.
Kai the sea joined with 'aina the land and met lani the sky. The union is mimicked in the sounds given to these elements--rolling, flowing, astounding. And it's these valleys, mountains and beaches that entice the malihini, visitors, to fly thousands of miles to bask in what they can only term paradise.
As you feast on roast pig and poi, an ocean breeze tickles the orchid that so nicely garnishes your cocktail. Dark-skinned beauties adorned in ti-leaf skirts and fragrant leis appear on a stage before you, their eyes toward the sky, arms above their heads and hips swaying seductively to the melody of a plucking 'ukulele. The smooth movements of the dancers' hands are hypnotic. Entranced and relaxed, you bite into a juicy pineapple and enjoy the show.
But things here weren't always so easygoing. For ancient Hawaiians, the hula was a hallowed ritual. Performers danced for hula goddesses Laka and Hi'iaka, offering to the deities the sacred lei worn in the dance. Each move had to be performed impeccably, for the slightest mistake could be punishable by death.
And still there are other gods to appease. Assuming natural forms, they reign in a state steeped in mythical allusion, serving as explanations for the wondrous geologic features that make up Hawai'i's island paradise.
Meet Pele, fire goddess, who came to the Big Island in search of a suitable home. She found Kilauea, now considered part of Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. Aila'au, the fire god who originally held court at Kilauea, so feared Pele's powers that he fled, leaving the goddess alone to settle in her new abode.
Local lore says that Pele still resides in Halema'uma'u, a depression within Kilauea Caldera. And she makes her presence known--with spitting fire and thick, rolling lava. Quite possibly the longest temper tantrum in history, Pele's wrath has caused steady eruptions of Kilauea since 1983. Wise visitors to the volcano leave gifts of leis or stones wrapped in ti leaves along the deep crater's rim. They also refrain from taking samples of the lava rock, fearful of the bad luck said to haunt those who do.
Dormant volcanoes Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea also are on the Big Island. The latter, named White Mountain for its snowy apex, was the home of snow goddess Poli'ahu. She was icy indeed: Rumor has it that she turned unwelcome visitors to stone.
The demigod Maui stalked the sun from Haleakala's crest; at 10,023 feet, the dormant, lunarlike House of the Sun is definitely a high point on the island of Maui. Goddess Hina complained that the sun slept late and sped across the sky to make up time, leaving little daylight for her chores. Her son Maui captured the sun with a coconut fiber rope and only consented to its release with the agreement that it would travel more slowly across the sky.
The result is nearly 13 hours of daylight in summer to enjoy Maui's grasslands, green valleys and teal waters that lap black volcanic sand. And the sun's morning stretch across the summit of Haleakala's sunken crater--a watercolor canvas in warm golds and oranges--is a sight not easily forgotten.
While visiting the islands you will come across too many rainbows and waterfalls to count. The colorful arches, which grace lush gorges, plummeting waterfalls and even the Honolulu skyline, are provided courtesy of the goddess Anuenue.
The legend says that in a valley on Kaua'i, a resident tossed a brightly colored cloth into the pool at Namolokama Falls. The colors spread into a magnificent rainbow, and the goddess emerged from an underwater prison, grateful to the villager for setting her free to roam about the islands. To this day she continues her wanderings, bestowing a colorful blessing on the landscape.
In Hilo, Hawai'i, you may have the chance to meet Anuenue firsthand. She often visits 'Akaka Falls and Rainbow Falls, where evidence of her colored wand gleams amid the splash of tumbling water.
And there are other legends. Moloka'i's open, rolling landscape is said to be a product of the coupling between creation god Wakea and Hina. Miniscule menehune, short, elfin creatures with supernatural powers, once ruled Kaua'i, constructing works of stone that baffle archeologists.
So while you find yourself strolling along Hawaiian beaches under whispering palms, hiking among bamboo groves and dewy ferns or standing on a hissing lava bed, sulfur burning your nostrils--look closer. In this paradise, not all is what it seems, and mythology surrounds you like a warm ocean breeze.
From the ocean floor to volcanic peaks, Hawai'i is an inviting land of extremes. Warm azure water and unspoiled natural wonders are the calling cards of this compact tropical paradise. State-managed Marine Life Conservation Districts off O'ahu, Hawai'i, Lana'i and Maui are perfect playgrounds for underwater exploration and photography. Fish in these protected areas are accustomed to rubbing fins with humans--they're anything but camera shy!
Kealakekua Bay, the largest district at 315 acres, is nestled along the western coast of the Big Island near the Captain Cook Monument. Pristine water, depths to 120 feet and diverse species make it a popular stop on the scuba diving circuit, especially for charter boats. If you can't get to the bay by boat, take SR 11 to Napo'opo'o and swim out from the beach.
Molokini, 3 miles off the southwestern coast of Maui, is the crescent-shaped remains of a volcanic crater. Divers will find the cove and outer rim teeming with marine life, perhaps even a humpback whale or two (between November and April). Don't set your flippers on the uninhabited islet--it's a seabird sanctuary.
O'ahu's 50 public beaches welcome walk-ons and walk-ins, including snorkelers. Hanauma Bay has a reef with sandy bottoms that extends about 100 yards offshore. Beyond the reef are coral beds, where schools of fish are abundant and sea turtles often are spotted due to good visibility. For your safety, lifeguards are on duty all year and boats are not permitted in the bay.
When the tide is low at Pupukea Beach Park (off SR 83 north of Hale'iwa) you can walk on the reef at Shark's Cove or let the kids snorkel in tide pools for a goggle-eyed view of the marine underworld. Experienced scuba divers can explore caves along the cove's outer fringes, where night diving is said to be excellent. The best time to visit this North Shore park is May through October, when the water is calm. And don't let the cove's name scare you away--shark sightings are no more prevalent here than at any other inlet.
Surfers find swell action on O'ahu's north shore; this is where the big ones roll in, especially in winter. Waikiki Beach, on the other hand (and the other side of the island), beckons the novice rider with its gentler waves.
Those who dare to meet the crests without a board can attempt bodysurfing at Po'ipu Beach on Kaua'i. World-class windsurfing off Ho'okipa, east of Kahului, is a Maui specialty.
With few developed roads into wilderness areas, an island's hiking trails often provide the only access to deep rain forests, mountainous volcanic craters or steep oceanside cliffs. Always check weather conditions, including information about tides and waves before camping or hiking.
The challenging 11-mile Kalalau Trail, on Kaua'i's Na Pali Coast, begins at Ke'e Beach near Ha'ena and follows the coastline along a footpath cut in the 1800s--rising over palis, or cliffs, that tower up to 2,700 feet, dipping into five valleys and spilling onto deserted beaches. Experienced hikers can make the trip in a day; however, primitive campsites are available for overnight stays. Secondary trails, none longer than 2 miles, branch off to interior streams and waterfalls. Whether you complete all or part of this rugged journey, you'll be rewarded with spectacular scenery.
More trails can be reached via SR 550, which skirts the rim of Waimea Canyon (Kaua'i's answer to the Grand Canyon) and ends at a 4,000-foot overlook in Koke'e State Park. For a sweeping panorama of O'ahu, hike to the summit of Diamond Head, Southeast of Honolulu; the three-quarter-mile trek is moderately difficult, yet family friendly. Contact the Division of State Parks for trail guides and day-hiking permits.
Bicycle paths thread across some 65 miles of O'ahu's Ko'olau and Wai'anae ranges. Take in the extended views from the ridges, being careful not to peddle off the path: Erosion caused by tire ruts is an environmental concern here and on all the islands.
The Big Island presents bicyclists with the ultimate peddling and sightseeing combo--an 11-mile circle tour along the rim of Kilauea Caldera in Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park; the visitor center is a good place to start.
Hawai'i has verdant golf courses bordering rugged coastlines, lush fairways in jewellike mountain settings and year-round golfing weather. Greens fees vary and are subject to change. Unless otherwise noted, the courses allow carts. Many courses feature driving ranges. For more information about Hawai'i's golf courses, phone the Hawai'i Visitors and Convention Bureau, (808) 923-1811.
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